So we’ve come to the end of the month already. Where did it go? I still felt like I had so much of the model left to paint. I’ve you’ve been following the hobby challenge you will have seen that all I had painted up to this point was the blue basecoat, the gold, and a basecoat for the silver parts. (Bear with us, this is going to be a long one!)
However, one of the things that’s often misunderstood in miniature painting is that the small parts of detail can actually be quicker to paint – there’s less surface area. (This isn’t always true, but less surface area tends to require less blending, layering, etc.)
The first thing I needed to do was to highlight the blue armour. Again, there were only sections of this that needed doing: the hard edges that would catch the light. The large armour plates were mostly filled with gold filigree, so trying to highlight these would be difficult, and would draw the eye away from the gold. (It’s often important to thing about what you want you focal point of the model to be – this is most commonly the face as it’s human nature to look first at someone’s face.)
FROM HERE ON IN (Until Rob’s parts) ALL PAINTS ARE CITADEL.
I did this using Calgar Blue over the whole edge of the plate (using the side of your brush can be a good way of getting it consistent), then Fenrisian Grey on about 50-60% of the edge, finished off with Blue Horror at the very top of the plate. This represents the blue being caught by the light.
The next thing I did was to go back and highlight the silver areas. Normally I would layer this again in Leadbelcher, but I wanted the mechanical metal on this to be a real contrast to the glowing gold. All I did was to do an edge highlight with Stormhost Silver.
Then it was time for those famous white bits you get on every Ultramarines’ armour. I basecoated these with Celesta Grey (this is how I do most of my white to be honest), then gave a layer of Ulthuan Grey. After this I gave them a wash of Drakenhof Nightshade, but I thinned it with Lahmian Medium. If you use it straight out of the pot, it’s too blue, but thinning it turns it into more of a glaze to give the alabaster style white. Then a final layer of White Scar.
Next was the scrollwork, and again this is very similar to how I do it on most of my models. (Normally I use Agrax Earthshade rather than Seraphim Sepia.)
First I basecoated with Rakarth Flesh, then gave it all a liberal wash of Seraphim Sepia. This shade ties it in with all the gold, making it feel like one model, rather than many different parts. Then another layer of Rakarth Flesh, leaving the sepia in the recesses to give depth. Then I use Pallid Wych Flesh, leaving more of the recesses, and finally a highlight of White Scar. For the ‘Guilliman’ on his shoulder I thinned down Rhinox Hide with Lahmian Medium until it was really runny and used an XS layer brush to paint it into the recesses.
What was left was to fill in all the other little details, the sword, his bare head, and base. Not too much then!
The wax purity seals were painted with a basecoat of Screamer Pink, the washed with Druchii Violet, and highlighted with Pink Horror, and Kislev Flesh, picking out small parts to make it look like wax.
The red pipes, screen on his backpack, hilt of his sword, and the eye-lenses were done the same way, again to tie them together. Starting with Khorne Red, then a wash of Nuln Oil, then a layer of Evil Sunz Scarlet, Fire Dragon Bright, and finally Yriel Yellow. On the pipes the highlights are on the highest points, and with the lenses and screens The highlight is to the bottom right, the opposite of the light source. This gives a glass effect, especially with a dot of with on the other side.
As you will have read in previous updates, I had already done most of the sword, the only thing that remained was the highlighting. I was very careful with this and thinned every paint with Lahmian Medium so that I could control it better, and wipe it off if need be. The first highlight was Yriel Yellow on the lines of the flames, and edges of the blade. Then Flash Gitz Yellow in the same places, and finally a little bit of White Scar.
Finally, I painted the bare head. As I mentioned in the first update I undercoated the part white, so that the flesh would be a nice smooth colour. I then basecoated it with Kislev Flesh. It’s not a base paint, but over white it has a good coverage. Then, as with all my flesh painting, a wash of Reikland Fleshshade, followed again by Kislev Flesh, just on the raised portions of the face, and then Flayed One Flesh to emphasise the lines of his jaw, cheeks and brow. I then used Carroburg Crimson shade to bring out his lips.
Regretfully, I was too in the zone to remember to take better pictures of this. To paint eyes I thin down white and put a dot on. It’s best to start with a small amount that you can add to then having too much paint on your brush and trying to get paint off the model. Then a thinned dot of black in the middle. It doesn’t matter if it doesn’t show up too much, from this distance eyes are very small.
The laurels on both heads are basecoated Castellan Green, washed with Biel-Tan Green, highlighted on top and bottom of each leaf with Elysian Green and a smaller amount of Ogryn Green, then only on the tops with Krieg Khaki.
His hair was basecoated Zandri Dust, washed Seraphim Sepia, then a sword of dry/wetbrush (I used a normal detail brush, but wiped a lot of paint off the bristles) of Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone, and then highlighted strands of hair with Screaming Skull.
The base was carried on from the previous post by washing Agrax Earthshade, then drybrush of Dawnstone and Administratum Grey. The braziers were painted white, then washed with Casandora Yellow, then Fuegan Orange leaving the yellow toward the bottom, and Carroburg Crimson higher up still. The ends of the flames were then drybrushed black and then Dawnstone.
Then the rest of the detail were quite easy. The Chaos Marine was painted black, highlighted with Eshin Grey. The silver was all Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, then highlighted Runefang Steel. The skulls were Zandri Dust, Seraphim Sepia, Ushabti Bone, and Screaming Skull, and the bullet casing were Retributor Gold, Seraphim Sepia and highlighted Auric Armour Gold and Runefang Steel.
I then added sand to the base and painted all the earth bits with thinned Mournfang Brown. All this needed then was a drybrush of Terminatus Stone, and painting the rim in Mournfang Brown.
Now, over to Rob to see how he got on:
At the start of this week, I was in the same boat as Mike, and I felt like it was leaking, and would be submerged by today. However, by having minimal sleep and painting non-stop between about 2100hrs to 0030hrs, I’ve managed to reach the target and finish Guilliman. So where did I start this week? His sword.
I have a lot of love for this sword, because it looks ace, and nothing adds a bit of cool to a weapon more than fire.
I’d originally painted it plain Citadel Averland Sunset, which it seems I didn’t take a picture of. Once the Averland Sunset is dry – it’s important to get a nice smooth finish to it, so if the undercoat is showing through, give it another layer. Next, I used Citadel Casandora Yellow wash, and went over the flames and the base of the sword with it.
Now before the Cassandra Yellow dried, I used Vallejo Red Shade and added it to the flames, focussing more on the top of the flames and the kind of oval recesses the flames make on the blade. I also went heavy on the Red Shade at the base of the sword.
I repeated the process a few times, adding a 50/50 mix of Red Shade and Casandora Yellow to darken the flames. I then added Casandora Yellow to the rest of the blade in a smooth layer to darken it.
Next I really watered down the Averland Sunset and added a few very fine layers to the sections that needed lightening, mainly the tip of the blade and the raised sections of fire. I repeated this several times, also lightening the two straight raised ‘power things’ (Mike, is there a proper name for these – [I would call them generators? Mike]) , and creating lighter stripes from the tip of the flames to the opposite side of the sword.
I also added some Citadel Seraphim Sepia to the base of the sword to darken that further. I kept adding Vallejo White – and a spot of water each time I did – to the and lightening all the edges of the blade, it’s tip, the ridge that runs it’s length, and the same power bits as mentioned earlier.
Once done, I added a final almost pure white layer to the sections, and above, and some of the edges of the flames. I then added Vallejo Black Shade to the tips of some of the flames to darken them up.
I used exactly the same method for the two torches, but, in my haste to finish, I used some Citadel Abaddon Black to darken the tips of the flames. Sadly this ruined the overall effect, and I’ll be repainting those sections at a later point. You’ll see the bad torches in some pics later on. Below you can see the flames before I ruined them.
The torches themselves I painted using Vallejo Model Air Chrome, with a wash of Black Shade. The imperial eagles were painted Vallejo Model Colour Old Gold, washed with Seraphim Sepia before being highlighted with more Old Gold. The skull was painted using the same technique as the base skulls – you can find the method here – but it consists of Citadel Rakarth Flesh, wash with Seraphim Sepia, highlight with Rakarth Flesh, then highlight with Citadel Ushabti Bone.
For the base I added Dark Earth textured paint, which I then painted using the grey technique from Update 3. The tubings and metallic detritus I added a wash of Black Shade, followed by a few different washes of Vallejo Umber Shade, Seraphim Sepia, and Vallejo Brown Shade.
The Black Legionnaire was painted Citadel Abaddon Black, and his armour trim painted with Old Gold, Seraphim Sepia wash, then highlighted with Old Gold. His lenses were painted Vallejo Flat Red, then highlighted using the same method I use for Gemstones – highlighting the bottom edge with Flat Red/White mix. The tubing was painted Vallejo Flat Green with a Vallejo Green Shade wash. The eye of Horus was painted with Averland Sunset, using Casandora Yellow, and Red Shade around the edges. An Abaddon Black strip was painted on for the vertical pupil.
Note the yellow sword in the picture below? That’s the Averland Sunset base coat mentioned above.
All the gemstones on him were painted using the same method as the Legionnaire’s lenses/gemstones post.
Seals – they were painted with Flat Red, washed with Citadel Druchii Violet, then highlighted with a Flat Red and Druchii Violet mix that I gradually added more White to. The parchments and ribbons on them were painted using Rakarth Flesh, a wash of Brown Shade, then highlighted with Rakarth Flesh, with White being added in increasing amounts until the final highlight was almost pure White. The text/writing I then completed using a 01.mm Staedler pigment liner 308.
Metallics: The silvery Metallics were painted using Chrome, then washing with Black Shade.
Tubing: The tubing was all Painted Flat Red, washed with Druchii Purple, then highlighted with Flat Red.
Icons: The white Ultramarines badges were painted using Vallejo White. Now I find White paints are always thicker than everything else, so I watered if down a bit so that I could do a number of thinner, smoother layers. Once they had completely dried (something you must do between each layer, otherwise the drying paint kind of goes soggy, and will crumble away. Once the white was completely smooth, I mixed a tiny bit of Citadel Guilliman Blue wash into the white to make it ever so slightly blue, then painted small areas of that on the icons and used it on the skull on his knee plate too.
Finally, it was time to finish off his heads. The helmet was near done, and it was only a case of painting the lenses using the same method above. I completed the Wreath in the same style for both, a base coat of Flat Green, a wash using Green Shade, then highlighted with a layer of Flat Green, then a further two layers where White was aded to the green in increasing amounts.
His face was painted with Vallejo Dark Flesh, washed with Seraphim Sepia, then layers of Dark Flesh were applied, adding more White to each layer. His eyes were painted White, with Abaddon Black pupils. His hair I painted Vallejo Ivory, washed with Casandora Yellow, then mixed White and Casandora Yellow a couple of times to highlight the hair.
After four weeks, three of which I found a real slog, I finished him late on Friday, knowing that I wouldn’t have time to correct the torches until after the posting time. I feel that he’s probably one of the best painted miniatures I’ve done in a while, so, here are some snaps of my finished Guilliman:
And Mike’s finish Guilliman:
We hope you’ve enjoyed following the progress of the challenge, it’s been hard work but good fun.
Let us know which finished Roboute Guilliman you liked the most, and if you preferred one style of a part to another. All comments are welcomed!