When Necromunda first launched way back in the 90’s, I picked it up a few months later. At the time I didn’t have much money but I had to get it. I’d played it’s forerunner ‘Confrontation’ – the rules spread out over several issues of White Dwarf that I’d purchased off a mate – for years with a few friends, with gangs made up from Scavvy, Tech and Brat miniatures. When Necromunda launched, it was a neat, easy ruleset to pick up – I’m glad to say the new version is the same – and a few of us became hooked straight away. I chose the Orlocks, and my gang, The Misfits were named after the Misfits band, and the members of the Dead Kennedys. It was a great game, and we had a MASSIVE campaign that went on for months, slowly capturing territories across a sheet of A3 until we’d wiped out the Non-Player gangs and were fighting between ourselves.

After spending so much time with the original gang, I couldn’t entirely leave them out of the new edition, so, the Goliath rivals from the previous edition are becoming the new incarnation of the Misfits. Over these two posts I’ll be going through the stages of how I painted them up.

Skin

For the skin, I wanted a few different shades to add a bit of variety to the gang, and to also practice painting up different skin tones. I have quite a variety of skin shades I could choose from, but for the gang I settled on Vallejo Base Flesh, Vallejo Beige Brown, and Vallejo Burnt Umber. Once the wash is on, it’s just a case of adding the paint to smaller and smaller areas.

Like with everything, I try and highlight the areas that will catch the light, so for the re-application of Flesh Base I didn’t really add any to the underside of the arms, etc. I did a few highlights on the muscle at the side of the torso, but there were only small highlights on those areas after that.

Base Flesh:

Burnt Umber:

Beige Brown:

Armour

The Goliath’s armour plates are quite varied. While this one is split down the middle with few interruptions, some have rows of spikes, or are just plain. The principle of painting them is just the same though. I left areas of the preceding colour around the edges so that the final highlight was more central. However, using the final step of Agrax Earthshade allowed me to shade the underside of the armour so that it wasn’t as bright and appeared to have natural shading.

As a general rule of thumb, I tend to highlight the areas that would be caught by light if the light was coming from the top down, so the underside of the arms or armour is often left base coated and shaded, but with few to no highlights. On the armour I added highlights to some of the details on the underside of the armour, as though it was catching a little light.

Base

When I first saw the bases for Necromunda, I was over the moon. I love the Sector Mechanicus and Imperialis bases, and these were pretty much the same. I did a video on painting these bases here, and you can also see a many of the bases on the many Death Guard posts and videos.

For the Necromunda bases, I was working along the lines of the underhive being quite damp and grim, and expected that the Mechanicus probably didn’t venture down there to polish the floor and keep everything shiny and clean. To that end, I weathered them quite heavily.

For the sections of Citadel Fulgurite Copper, I washed them with Agrax Earthshade, then weathered them with varying amounts of Citadel Nihilakh Oxide – which is perfect for adding Verdigris.

On the Leadbelcher areas I used Citadel Nuln Oil to shade them, then weathered them with the Citadel Typhus Corrosion textured technical paint, then the Citadel Dry paint Ryza Rust. It’s worth noting to let the Typhus Corrosion dry before you drybrush on the Ryza Rust, or it mixes the colours and doesn’t look as distinctive.

Due to the number of picture on this post, I’ve split it into two so that it doesn’t take an age to load up. In the next part we’ll be looking at the weapons, clothing, straps and of course, the skull face paints.

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