Gerriz Teef!: Ork Objective Marker Part 1

Having started back on the ork army I’d shelved years ago by painting up the Ork Kommando for Kill Team, I’ve carried on painting up greenskins with some gusto. While I’ve opened up and sorted through one box, I’ve not looked in the other yet, and I know there’s a mass of vehicles, characters and troops in there to go through. One box of minis that I found though, was the dead ork which was released years ago, along with a handful of grots doing different things, and I thought it’d be a good time to paint up some of these yet unpainted miniatures for an objective marker. I have a part finished ork Iwo Jima objective which I’ll be finishing soon, as a group of orks struggle to raise a Waaagh banner (the skull plate off the front of a Stompa), but I thought something a little smaller would be good too.

With the dead, toothless ork lying dead on the floor, I decided that one grot dragging a sack of teeth away and another walking off with a helmet full of teeth would be a decent objective, and glued them into place.

The first thing, as always, was undercoat them. For this I used Halfords Matt Black Primer, it’s cheaper than most hobby spray cans and is usually readily available.

Base colours

The base colours are fairly limited for this piece. In the army as a whole, I tried to keep them down to keep all the orks looking like they were part of the same clan, so I’m continuing that as I paint some more.

Skin – Citadel Waaagh Flesh
Mouth – Citadel Mephiston Red
Teeth, loin cloth and thin wrist straps – Citadel Rakarth Flesh
Boots – Vallejo Black
Weapon, armour plates, stikk bomb – Citadel Leadbelcher
Golden Metallics – Citadel Skullcrusher Brass
Blues – Citadel Macragge Blue
Light Browns – Vallejo Beige Brown
White Stripes on trousers – Vallejo White

Shades

I’ve probably said it before, and I’m pretty certain I’ll say it again. For me, shades are where the miniatures come to life. While the images above look as though they’ve been painted fairly ragged with gaps and overlaps, the shades manage to bring everything together and blend it a little without much effort. In an army with as many troops as the orks, I’ll be relying on them heavily.

Grot skin, and blues – Citadel Drakenhof Nightshade
Ork Skin – Citadel Athonian Camoshade
Brass, and browns – Citadel Agrax Earthshade
Red – Citadel Druchii Violet
Leadbelcher – Citadel Nuln Oil
Rakarth Flesh – Citadel Seraphim Sepia
White – Vallejo Pale Grey Wash

Layer 1

The first layer is just re-applying some of the colours from the original base colours listed above. The list below is the only ones that I re-applied.

Skin – Citadel Waaagh Flesh
Teeth – Citadel Rakarth Flesh
Blues – Citadel Macragge Blue
White Stripes on trousers – Vallejo White

Highlights 2

Skin – Citadel Waaagh Flesh
Mouth – Citadel Mephiston Red
Teeth, loin cloth and thin wrist straps – Citadel Rakarth Flesh
Boots – Vallejo Black
Weapon, armour plates, stikk bomb – Citadel Leadbelcher
Golden Metallics – Citadel Skullcrusher Brass
Blues – Citadel Macragge Blue
Light Browns – Vallejo Beige Brown
White Stripes on trousers – Vallejo White

Highlights 2

All the highlights were done by adding a little white to the layer colour, and applying to the raised areas, being sure to leave some of previous colours visible. In terms of the ork and goblin skin, you’ll probably find I use a few different mixes/ways of highlighting orks, and this is mainly to get a little variation on the skin tones. I liked the old fluff that had the larger orks with darker skin, so as we move onto nobz and such, you’ll see a few different methods.

Instead of mixing white with the Waaagh flesh, you can add Skarsnik Green, or Warboss Green, or just use them as the highlights. I’ll demonstrate them on a post about skin tones at a later point.

With the second lot of highlights finished, all that remains is the detailing and base.

Slugga

The ork’s slugga is already base coated and shaded, so the first step was to add some Agrax Earthshade to the Leadbelcher areas. I only added it to the angles and corners to give the impression of grime building up. Once dry, I used a little Citadel Dry paint, Ryza Rust. Rather than going for the full textured and rusted effect, I just lightly drybrushed some onto the Leadbelcher areas to discolour it a little.

That’s all for part one. In part two I’ll be going through a few more details and then the simple, but effective basing of it.

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