Gerriz Teef!: Ork Objective Marker Part 2

The second, and final part of the Ork objective marker. If you’ve not seen part one, you can find it here, if you have, then carry on with the post below.

Armour chipping

Armour chipping was added to the Ork’s armour plates and helmet using a really basic, but effective technique. Once you’ve painted the armour plates/helmet up with highlights, use a piece of sponge – like the kind you get from Games Workshop blister packs – to lightly dab on some black paint. The black forms the base for your chipped armour. Once dry, you can add in a metallic, whichever you prefer/fits your army. I tend to use Citadel Leadbelcher if it is for a muted look, or Vallejo Model Air Chrome if you want the chipping to be brighter. Once the metallic is added, use a little Nuln Oil to dull it down a touch.

If you want to add some fresh scraping to metal plates, the same metallic can then be lightly drybrushed along it’s edges.

Basing parts

After a quick forage through the bits box/drawers,  found two old skills, a small piece of rubble, and two small stairs.

Skulls – I based these with Citadel Rakarth Flesh, washed with Seraphim Sepia, re-applied some Rakarth Flesh, then highlighted with Ushabti Bone, then a Ushabti Bone and white mix.

Stairs – the stairs were also painted in a very basic way. Based with Mechanicus Standard Grey (MSG), washed with Nuln Oil, MSG re-applied, Vallejo London Grey highlight, then a London Grey and white final highlight on the edges, chips and scrapes.

Below is how they turned out.


Again, I wanted something simple for the base, and having used Citadel’s texture paint Astrogranite Debris on the other recent Orks, I decided to go with that. I applied a reasonable layer to the whole base, leaving a gouge out o it from the Ork’s armpit to the sack that the Goblin is dragging to give the impression that it’s heavy and pushing the dirt and rubble to the side as it’s dragged along the floor.

Once dry – and it’s important to leave it until it’s fully dry – I applied a wash of Nuln Oil. Again, wait for this to dry before applying the next wetbrushed layer -Mechanicus Standard Grey. After this came a lighter drybrushed layer of London Grey.

After this final highlight, you can add washes as you wish. I added a little Agrax Earthshade around the areas where little green feet might have moved some debris to reveal some damp earth beneath, and also a little Athonian Camoshade around the stairs to add a little damp.


Years ago, you had to make do with a little Blood Red to add gore to your models, and it always looked a little like deliberately fake blood – think the original Dawn of the Dead (which I love, btw). Now a lot of places do paints and techniques for gore and blood, but for me the easiest is Carroburg Crimson and Blood for the Blood God, Citadel’s gift to the gore hungry.

Initially I apply Carroburg Crimson to the areas that I want to be bloodied – yes, Ork blood probably wouldn’t be red, but the contrast is lovely, and you can easily see what it is. On cloth areas, I tried to make it look like it had soaked into the material by spreading it out, so that it wasn’t as deeper red on the edge as it was nearer the wound. This wouldn’t really be how it is in real life, but it works well on the miniatures.

Once that is dried, I added Blood for the Blood God onto the areas that I wanted to look like they had wet blood on, so the root-end of the teeth, his gums and wounds, the floor around his wounds and a few small hand/foot prints from the Grots. Once this was done, it was ready for varnishing.

The end result

And there you have it.

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