How to paint Stormcast Eternals Celestar Ballista crew, Sacristan Engineers, part 2

Welcome to part two of the Sacristan Engineers Ballista crew tutorial. Part one can be found here, and there’s a video tutorial for the other engineer, too.

I’m starting with the cream coloured robes first. Now it’s actually a the same method to paint the scrolls they have hanging from their belt so it fits in quite nicely. Start off with a layer of Citadel Rakarth Flesh, and wash it with Citadel Seraphim Sepia. Once dry, reapply the Rakarth Flesh, being sure to leave the Seraphim Sepia in the recesses. To highlight mix a little white with the Rakarth Flesh and apply it to the areas where the light would catch it most, so the creases in the robes, the top edges of the scroll, etc. The final highlight was done by adding more white to the previous mix, and painting this onto the top edges of the scroll and the tops of the creases in the robes. You can see these extreme highlights on the last image.

The skin was painted using a really simple method. This time the skin was painted using Citadel Cadian Fleshtone, washed with Citadel Reikland Fleshshade before reapplying the Cadian Fleshtone, being sure to leave the Fleshshade in the recesses. I added a little White to the Cadian Fleshtone and highlighted the skin, lightening the areas where the light would catch it. For the extreme highlight I added some more White to the mix and added this to the top edges of the previous highlight.

For the straps and the top of the gloves I gave them a base coat of Black, then highlighted the flatter surfaces, ridges and top edges with Vallejo German Grey. The final highlight was completed by applying thin lines of Citadel Mechanicus Standard grey, on any the top edges and any other areas you think would be catching the light from above.

White is a colour I’m never too keen on painting over large areas – hats off to anyone painting White Scars or Adam painting up his Seven Years War Austrians, and thankfully there wasn’t much to do on the crew. I started with a smooth(ish) layer of White, which I then washed with Vallejo Pale Grey Wash. Once dry, I reapplied the White, trying to leave the Pale Grey Wash in the recesses and in the creases of the cloak. To ensure you don’t have too stark a contrast between the White and the Pale Grey, you might want to thin your paint with a little water. Just a spot, mind, White tends to be thin and streaky enough (or even thick and streaky enough) that you can usually feather it into the grey without it looking too blatant.

Once you’re happy with the white of the cloak you can paint on any detailing – in this case the gold, and then you’re done.

Thanks for reading, and I hope this has been useful for you. If you have any questions please comment below and we’ll see if we can answer them for you!

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